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Popularized by Michael Pollan in his best-selling In Defense of Food, Gyorgy Scrinis's concept of nutritionism refers to the reductive understanding of nutrients as the key indicators of healthy food―an approach that has dominated nutrition science, dietary advice, and food marketing. Scrinis argues this ideology has narrowed and in some cases distorted our appreciation of food quality, such that even highly processed foods may be perceived as healthful depending on their content of "good" or "bad" nutrients. Investigating the butter versus margarine debate, the battle between low-fat, low-carb, and other weight-loss diets, and the food industry's strategic promotion of nutritionally enhanced foods, Scrinis reveals the scientific, social, and economic factors driving our modern fascination with nutrition.
Scrinis develops an original framework and terminology for analyzing the characteristics and consequences of nutritionism since the late nineteenth century. He begins with the era of quantification, in which the idea of protective nutrients, caloric reductionism, and vitamins' curative effects took shape. He follows with the era of good and bad nutritionism, which set nutricentric dietary guidelines and defined the parameters of unhealthy nutrients; and concludes with our current era of functional nutritionism, in which the focus has shifted to targeted nutrients, superfoods, and optimal diets. Scrinis's research underscores the critical role of nutrition science and dietary advice in shaping our relationship to food and our bodies and in heightening our nutritional anxieties. He ultimately shows how nutritionism has aligned the demands and perceived needs of consumers with the commercial interests of food manufacturers and corporations. Scrinis also offers an alternative paradigm for assessing the healthfulness of foods―the food quality paradigm―that privileges food production and processing quality, cultural-traditional knowledge, and sensual-practical experience, and promotes less reductive forms of nutrition research and dietary advice.
- Sales Rank: #772979 in Books
- Published on: 2015-02-10
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 8.60" h x .90" w x 5.60" l, 1.26 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 368 pages
Review
Nutritionism is an important contribution to the discourse of the alternative food movement, providing a unique, scholarly rationale for the food-quality paradigm. Gyorgy Scrinis provides a new language for talking about how our ideas about what makes a good diet have come to be.
(Charlotte Biltekoff, University of California, Davis)Scrinis details the ideology of 'nutritionism,' in which the great majority of dietary advice is reduced to statements about a few nutrients. The resulting cascade is nutrient-based dietary guidelines, nutrition labeling, food engineering, and food marketing. I agree with Scrinis that a broader focus on foods would lead to quite a different scientific and political cascade, including a more healthful diet for many people and a different relationship between the public and the food industry.
(David Jacobs, Mayo Professor of Public Health, School of Public Health, University of Minnesota)This book artfully brings together two fields. One is the huge body of scholarly and popular texts that provide nutritional advice, or tell us what to eat. Scrinis has combed through this literature in exhaustive detail to provide a magnificent synthesis. The other field is what I would call critical nutrition studies, referring to a growing literature that interrogates and historicizes nutritional advice. Scrinis critiques this on its own terms and then suggests other approaches to evaluating food.
(Julie Guthman, author of Weighing In: Obesity, Food Justice, and the Limits of Capitalism)It is an arithmetic of which too many of us are capable―casting our eyes over our plates and calculating under our breath the balance of carbohydrate, protein, calorie, and other nutritional values. The origins of this very modern, very capitalist grace are laid bare in Gyorgy Scrinis's important, iconoclastic, and long-awaited study. If you care about the nutritional content of your food, you should care about why you care. Nutritionism, in large doses, has the answers.
(Raj Patel, author of Stuffed and Starved: The Hidden Battle for the World System)Clear and readable overview of food, diet, and what we do and don't know about it.
(Colorado Springs Independent)An impressive work of detailed scholarship and highly recommended for academic library Health & Medicine reference collections.
(Library Bookwatch) About the Author
Gyorgy Scrinis is a lecturer in food politics in the School of Land and Environment at the University of Melbourne, Australia. His research addresses the politics, sociology, and philosophy of food and of science and technology.
Most helpful customer reviews
6 of 8 people found the following review helpful.
Worthy investment
By Autamme_dot_com
Should you ever find yourself in the position of wanting to lose a little weight, you cannot help but be thoroughly confused by the sheer amount of seemingly conflicting information over what you should or shouldn't eat. Some ingredients and foods are good, now they are bad, oh, they are good again... really? What is one to do?
Taking a liberal quote from the very start of this book, you can easily get a taste (sic) of things to come: "Margarine has been the chameleon of manufactured food products, able to transform its nutritional appearance, adapt to changing nutritional fads and charm unwitting nutrition experts and nutrition-conscious consumers. While research published by nutrition scientists in the early 1990s on the harmfulness of the trans-fats in margarine temporarily unveiled its highly processed and degraded character, margarine has subsequently been reinvented as a trans-fat-free, cholesterol-lowering 'functional food.'"
So are we getting the wool pulled over our eyes by suave marketeers and big business? Possibly... Margarine was developed by a French chemist in the late nineteenth century and up until the 1960s, it was generally viewed as a cheap butter substitute, only used by those who couldn't afford the "real thing." Yet now butter is the big, bad nasty and margarine (a manufactured, chemically-reconstituted vegetable oil with various colouring agents and added vitamins) is the grand saviour. Really?
After reading through this book will you ever look at food, diets and so-called advice in the same light again? Naturally, the veracity (or not) of the information portrayed in this book is beyond the scope of this review, yet the author has presented some seemingly well-researched, clearly written opinions that make for a compelling, troubling and quite alarming read. As befits an academic book of this kind, there is a wealth of footnotes and bibliographic references so you can drill down to the source and interpret things for yourself should you so desire. Despite this being an academically-focussed book, the author manages to still make this an accessible read to the interested "generalist". You are not going to get a "this diet good, this diet bad" type of approach and you will need to interpret much yourself, but you will finish this book with a much broader, more eyes-wide-open manner than when you first started it. Don't feel put off or threatened by this book. It will be a bit of a hard slog for a general reader to perhaps get the most out of it, but it will be a worthwhile journey, even if you only understand and consume a fraction of the author's work!
Some of the chapter titles convey the type of material that awaits you: The Nutritionism Paradigm: Reductive Approaches to Nutrients, Food, and the Body; The Era of Quantifying Nutritionism: Protective Nutrients, Caloric Reductionism, and Vitamania; The Era of Good-and-Bad Nutritionism: Bad Nutrients and Nutricentric Dietary Guidelines and The Macronutrient Diet Wars: From the Low-Fat Campaign to Low-Calorie, Low-Carb, and Low-GI Diets.
The price tag of this book is a "steal" for a great academic work although it might be sadly out of reach of some general readers - that said at the time of writing this review (when the book has yet to be launched) at least one major online bookseller is offering this for sale with a 25% discount. So for less than the price of a family meal at a major fast food restaurant, you could genuinely get a hefty read that might change your entire approach to diets, nutrition and even food on a whole. It might be, without being hyperbole, one of your better investments this year if you are prepared to put in a bit of effort to digest the author's work.
3 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Difficult to read and it does not take long to get at the main thrusts of the author's arguments
By Kindle Customer
While I support the author's view on nutrition information and the politics of food, the book is actually difficult to read and comes across like a poorly written, leftist, political manifesto. This I would blame completely on the publisher for not hiring an editor to make the book readable. It seems to me that the essence of the book is to eat natural, unprocessed food and to be wary of what the author calls a reductionist view of food. As an example it is not helpful to reduce foods to lists of ingredients like carbohydrates, protein, vitamin C, zinc, etc. This is because each component of food acts in concert with the other components of that meal, not in isolation. The attitude that I did not agree with is the author's apparent view that nutritionists are misled, ignorant, and are incompetent and that only he can see beyond the rubbish that is published as advice on nutrition. I would view nutritionists as being like other scientists, working in a complex area where ideas may change as research uncovers new facts. I did not get far with this book since I found it difficult to read and it does not take long to get at the main thrusts of his arguments, which I agreed with.
3 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
stating the obvious is sometimes necessary
By sd
I received a complimentary copy of this book from netgalley.com for an honest review.
This book gives an interesting overview of the "science" of the health industry and I found some information that I hadn't known before - such as how margerine is produced and why it may not be healthier than butter. However, to be honest, while the details are new, the conclusions should be common sense: the closer to nature one eats, the better. It is a good wake up call for those who feel tossed from one fad diet to another and brings freedom to those that feel bound by a long list of food does and don'ts.
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